Showing posts with label apparel. Show all posts
Showing posts with label apparel. Show all posts

Thursday, August 16, 2007

Starphyre's Fabric Notes: How to identify fabric; N-W

This list is a continuation of my list of fabric identification! The following is excerpted from this book: Secondhand Chic: Find fabulous fashion at Consignment, Vintage, and Thrift stores: By Christa Weil.

Net:
An open fabric, which is created by connecting the intersections in a woven knitted or crocheted construction to form a mesh-like appearance that won't ravel.

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Nylon:
The first completely synthetic fiber developed. Known for its strength and excellent resilience, nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility.

Organza:
A crisp sheer, light-weight plain weave fabric with a medium to high yarn count. Made of silk, rayon, nylon, or polyester. The fabric is used primarily in evening and wedding dresses, and apparel for women.

Ottoman:
A tightly woven, plain-weave, ribbed fabric with a hard slightly lustered surface. The ribbed fabric with a hard slightly lustered surface. The ribbed effect is created by weaving finer silk or manufactured warp yarn with a heavier filler yard, usually made of cotton, wool, or waste yarn. In the construction of the heavier filler yarn is completely covered by the warp yarn. Thus creating the ribbed effect.

Pearlized:
Given a pearlescent surface, or finish.

Peau Satin:
A heavy twill weave drapeable satin fabric, made of silk or manufactured fiber, and used for bridal gowns and evening wear.

Picot:
A row of woven loops along the selvage of fabric or lace.

Pointelle:
Very feminine, delicate looking, rib knit fabric made w/ a pattern of openings.

Polyester:
A manufactured fiber which has high strength, excellent resiliency, and high abrasion resistance. Low absorbency allows the fiber to dry quickly.

Poplin:
A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave. The construction is characterized by having a slight ridge effect in one direction, usually the filling.

Ramie:
A bast fiber, similar to flax, taken from the stalk of a plant grown in china.

Rayon:
A manufactured fiber composed of regenerated cellulose, derived from wood pulp, cotton linters, or other vegetable matter.

Re-embroidered:
To outline a design(as on lace) with embroidery stitching.

Rhinestoned:
To attach a colorless imitation stone of high luster made of glass, paste, or gem quartz.(Is also sometimes plastic and can be colored)

Ribbed:
To form vertical ridges in knitting.

Ribboned:
Ribbon lace is made by stitching ribbon onto mesh or net fabrics. The design is usually a random pattern rather than floral.

Rib knit:
A basic stitch used in weft knitting in which the knitting machines require two sets of needles operating at right angles to each other. Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the crosswire direction. This knitted fabric is used for complete garments, and for such specialized uses as sleeve bands, neck bands, sweater waistbands, and special types of trims for use with other knit or woven fabrics. Lightweight sweaters in rib knits provide a close, body-hugging fit.

Satin:
A traditional fabric utilizing a satin weave construction to achieve a lustrous fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric surface. Satin is a traditional fabric for evening and wedding garments. Fabrics include: Slipper satin, crepe-back satin, faille satin, bridal satin, moleskin, and royal satin.

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Seersucker:
A woven fabric which incorporates modification of tension control. In the production of seersucker, some of the warp yarns are held under controlled tensions at all times during the weaving, while other warp yarns are in a relaxed state and tend to pucker when the filling yarns are placed. The result produces a puckered strip effect in the fabric.

Sequined:
Ornamental with a small plate of shining metal or plastic.

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Shantung:
A medium-weight plain-weave fabric, characterized by a ribbed effect, resulting from slubbed yarns used in the warp of filling direction. End uses include dresses and suits.

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Sheer:
Any very light-weight fabric(e.g. chiffon, georgette, voile, sheer crepe)usually and open weave. Sheers mostly feel cool.

Silk:
It is obtained from cocoons of a certain species of caterpillars. It is soft and has a brilliant sheen. It is one of the finest textiles, and it is also very strong and absorbent.

Spandex:
A manufactured elostomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still recover to its original length.

Suede: Leather with a napped surface.

Taffeta:
A lustrous, medium weight, plain weave fabric with a slight ribbed appearance in the filing(crosswise)direction for formal wear, taffeta is a favorite choice. It provides a crisp hand, with lots of body. Silk taffeta gives the ultimate rustle, but other fibers are also good choices.

Tencel:
A trademark of courtauds for a high performance fiber used to make soft, beautifully draping rayon fabrics. Tencel is made from wood pulp that is harvested from replenished tree farms. Washable.

Terry:
A woven fabric usually cotton, with a loop pile on one or both sides.

Tri-acetate:
A manufactured fiber, which, like acetate, is made by modifying cellulose. Tri-acetate is less absorbent and less sensitive to high temperatures than acetate. It can be hand or machine washed and tumble dried, w/ relatively good wrinkle recovery.

Twill:
A fabric that shows a distinct diagonal wale on the face(e.g. denim, gabardine, tricotine)

Velair:
A medium weight closely-woven fabric with a thick pile. It can be made using either plain weave or a sating weave construction. It resembles velvet, but has a lower cut pile.

Velvet:
A medium-weight cut pile constructed fabric in which the cut pile stands up very straight. It is woven using two sets pf warp yarns; the extra set creates the pile. Velvet, a luxurious fabric; is commonly made with a filament fiber for high luster and smooth hand.

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Venice lace:
This lace often has a high profile, and is made using needle point technique rather than embroidery. A heavier weight lace, the patterns vary from geometric to floral. Each pattern is attached to the others by bars made of thread.

Viscose:
The most common type of rayon. It is produced in much greater quantity than cuprammonium rayon, the other commercial type.

Voile:
A crisp, lightweight fabric, plain weave cotton-like fabric, made with high twist yarns in a high yarn count construction. Similar in appearance to organdy and organza.

Wool:
Usually associated with fiber of fabric made from the fleece of sheep or lambs. However; the term "wool" can also apply to all animal fibers, including the hair of the cashmere or angora goat, or the specialty hair fibers of the camel, alpaca, llama or vicuna.

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Thrift shopping 101: Part 2

In my previous blog I gave some tips on finding high quality costume jewelery; to start your collection of jewelery for your new wardrobe!

Tip:
You always want to be an early bird shopper! Find out when they open, and be there when the doors are opened. You will get the best stuff first!

Browsing and inspecting:
The difference between these two? When you browse; you fluff some clothes around, peek at a few pretty colors, and generally, find nothing and decide to give up. When inspecting; you painstakingly flip through every piece of clothing, whether it may suit you or not. You will end up finding the treasure buried beneath Grandma's Christmas tree sweater, and the orange furry thinga-ma-bob that LOOKS like your cat Fluffy.

An open mind:
Bring one of these w/ you, even if you have to borrow it from your weird hippie co-worker! You may come out a whole new person, w/ your own unique and classy(Or not)sense of style. Thrift shopping invites all kinds, whether you want to dress like a punk, a hippie, an evening dress for a night out on the town, or you work for a business where you have to wear a suit. You can dress up in any genre, or find your own quirky fashion sense EVERY day! Thrift shopping is like when you were a kid playing dress-up. Be experimental, try things you've never tried before, colors you've never worn, don't stick w/ earthy tones and bland avocados, spice things up. Remember, you are leaving the cheap retail scene to escape the boring fashions that come and go.

How frustrating is it that every year the retail stores tell you what's "In", what colors are "Fall colors", and what cuts you should be wearing? We shouldn't let corporations dictate what we wear. We are all individuals with personalities, not cardboard cut-out of what's in or out!

The great thing is, you don't have have to find one specific style that is "you" you can have MANY looks and styles, for all occasions, and your g/f's will wonder WHERE you got all your great outfits!

What to do when you find something cool:
First, check the fabric! Read what kind of fabric it is, if it still has a tag. Check if has to be hand-washed, or dry-cleaned, etc. If hand-washing suits your lifestyle, and time schedule, its a good idea; otherwise, be wary of avoiding the clothing item until you finally get around to having it dry cleaned. The next thing you want to do check is the seams, and the fabric quality. Do the tug-o-war test on the seams, lightly pull the fabric taut and check if the seams are loose, or you can visibly see light through them. Check all aspects of the seams to make sure there are no loose seams, loose thread, or torn corners. Also; look for double-stitching, this is a good sign, noting that the shirt is durable. Look for small stains, tears, or rips, these can be easily patched and repaired it your item is a true find.

Sequins, beading, rhinestones and embroidery:
Make sure to check if the designs on the item your checking out, are strong, and well-done. Make sure the thread is thick, and if possible not visible. Check for missing beads, or sequins, or weak thread sagging under the weight of beads. You want the sequins to be tight knit, and well overlapped and layered. If the piece is particularly heavy in your hand, and the cloth appears strong, and the beading has no missing patches, then it is usually a good piece.
What about those rhinestones? Make sure your rhinestones are encased in a metal piece, that is firmly attached to your shirt. If they are just "floating" and glued on, they will fall off even with light movement and daily activity.
Embroidery; make sure that the thread is thick, and there are no stray threads sticking up. Make sure the design is strong, and not done quickly and factory style.

What I'm NOT going to teach you:
This guide is for Thrift-shopping functionality, not for brand-whores! I'm not going to tell you how to decipher between real vintage Louis Vuitton, and fakes, or any of that stuff. You have to decide that for yourself!

What I will teach you about brands:
I will tell you what brands to avoid, if you want your piece to last longer than its third wash!
Cheap mall brands, are to be avoided at all costs!
Brands like Charlotte Russe, Wet Seal, Forever 21, are big no-no's! If its cute and you don't mind it lasting only a few washes, by all means buy it! But be warned, mall brands have a higher chance of breaking, snapping, and unraveling, as well as tears, runs, and all around disarray.
Mall brands will fade quicker, lose their luster and appeal much quicker than quality boutique brands.
A lot of thrift stores will carry retail brand clothing; Fang, Southpole, Self Esteem; etc. These brands are a little bit better than mall brands, and their cotton tees and jackets usually last a good amount of time. However; the spaghetti straps, and lacy pieces have a tendency of falling apart quickly.
If you want to know what high-quality brands and labels to look for, I suggest getting some Harper's Bazaar magazines from your local library, and browsing through the clothing ads. You will find that some of these brands are at your thrift store. These brands tend to be higher-grade cloth, last longer, and are usually more fitted and contoured to your form than retail and mall clothing.

The Secret:
The secret to creating a wardrobe for ALL occasions? Check ALL the areas of your thrift store. Don't go in solely looking for tank-tops and blouses, check the skirt section even if you don't normally wear skirts. Check the formal evening dress section, even if you don't have a reason. Items tend to get misplaced, and stuck in odd areas as well. You can find cute tank-tops in the Pajama's section sometimes. Looking through the dresses, and blazers you can find high grade vintage pieces, because most people don't check the formal wear. Don't leave any area unchecked, because you might just be leaving a treasure behind.

After reading this blog, you will be equipped with a basic knowledge of how to find good quality items, and how to avoid being scammed into a shiny shirt, that will quickly fall apart.
With these skills you will soon be on your way to building your new wardrobe, with long-lasting timeless favorites, instead of cheap throw-aways!
In my next blog I will cover some notes of mine, on how to identify types of fabric!

Wednesday, August 15, 2007

Fair Trade, and recycled clothing/accessories

I went online, to search for fair trade clothing companies and distributors, and found tons of links!!! A lot of people have the impression that Fair Trade items are more expensive, when in truth buying Fair Trade costs just about the same as a retail store! The retail store hikes up the prices, to benefit the big company. These places get their stuff directly from the craftspeople source, and pay them fair wages. I have also included links to individuals who are designers, making items from recycled materials. Enjoy!


People Tree
http://www.peopletree.co.uk/


Fair Indigo
http://www.fairindigo.com/

Mercado Global
https://iwojima.globat.com/~mercadoglobal.org/shop/index.php

Fair Trade Clothing, in Canada!
http://fairtradeclothing.ca/

Global Mamas
This stuff is really cute, its got a boho chic about it :)
http://www.globalmamas.org/

Union made apparel
http://nosweatapparel.com/

Equa-Fair Trade and Organic Boutique
http://www.equaclothing.com/

Indigenous Designs
http://www.indigenousdesigns.com/

American Apparel(Yes they are fair trade!!!)
www.americanapparel.net

Anatomy
www.anatomyfashion.co.uk

Bishopston Trading Company
www.bishopstontrading.co.uk

Chandni Chowk
www.chandnichowk.co.uk

Clothworks
www.clothworks.co.uk

Epona
www.eponasport.com

Equop
www.eponasport.com

Ethical Threads
www.ethicalthreads.co.uk

Fairganic Ltd
www.fairganic.co.uk

Funky Ghandi(This stuff is really trendy, Tees, and punkish styles w/ cool graphics)
http://www.funkygandhi.com/

Gossypium
http://www.gossypium.co.uk/

Greenfibres
www.greenfibres.com

Hemp Union
www.hemp-union.karoo.net

Howies
www.howies.co.uk

Hug
www.hug.co.uk

Jo Pott Mercer
www.jopott.com

Manumit Fair Trade Accessories
www.manumituk.com

Marlo Clothing
www.marlo.co.uk

Mini-Organic(Fairtrade organic cotton baby clothes)
www.mini-organic.co.uk

Natural Collection
www.naturalcollection.com

Nomads
www.nomadsclothing.com

One World is Enough
www.one-world-is-enough.net

Pachacuti
www.panamas.co.uk

Remould Clothing-A Derbyshire based business offering a range of Fair Trade clothing and accessories at competitive prices from beautiful fashion items to hand crafted accessories.
www.remouldclothing.co.uk

Schmidt Natural Clothing
www.naturalclothing.co.uk

Sea Salt Organic
www.seasaltorganic.co.uk

Spirit of Nature
www.spiritofnature.co.uk/

Think Clothing
www.thinkfairtrade.com

THTC
www.thtc.co.uk

Tonic T-shirts
www.tonictshirts.com

Traidcraft plc
www.traidcraft.co.uk

Wildlife Works UK-Organic clothing produced by locals on their 80,000 acre eco-sanctuary in Kenya where they also educate the locals on the importance of conserving their wildlife and provide jobs for the locals and schools for their children.
www.wildlifeworks.co.uk

A lot of shopping, fair trade and organics!
http://www.alotofshopping.co.uk/

So Organic
http://www.soorganic.com/home.php

Natural Collection-Fair Trade, handcrafted, natural stuff!!!
http://www.naturalcollection.com/

Adili-Fair trade Fashion
http://www.adili.com/

The UK Organic, and fair trade search engine
http://www.alotoforganics.co.uk

Turns recycled tires and soda bottles into sassy sneaks:
http://www.simpleshoes.com/

Incorporates recycled clothes and car seats into creatively designed sneakers:
http://shop.terraplana.com/shop.aspx

Purses made from recycled aluminum can tabs
http://www.escamastudio.com/products/index.html

Some recycled hand-bags, and eco-friendly purses
http://www.her-design.com/catalog.htm

An awesome collection of unique designer handbags made from recycled car interior!
http://kimwhitehandbags.com/shop.html